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|Wheel Type:||29 Inch All Mountain Wheel||Material:||Toray T700 Carbon Fiber|
|Finish:||UD / 3K / 12K , Matte / Glossy||Depth:||23.5mm|
|Width:||25mm||Weight:||1765g + / - 50g Per Sets|
|Spoke:||PILLAR PSR AERO1423&1432||Hub:||Novatec 791 792|
|Spoke Holes:||28 / 28 Holes||Warranty:||12 Months|
29er carbon mtb wheelset 35mm width mountain bike wheels 28 holes wheel
|Rim type||29 inch all mountain wheel|
|Material||Toray T700 carbon fiber|
|Finish||UD / 3K / 12K , Matte / Glossy|
|Weight||1765g + / - 50g per sets|
|Spoke holes||28 / 28H|
|Spoke||PILLAR PSR AERO1423&1432|
|Hub||Novatec 791 792|
Quality Products Mechanical winding , more stability than manual making rim .
Wider rims will improve your ride . Bigger tires offer more air volume to provide a more supple ride . Tires provide another inch or two of suspension on impact depending on pressure . In the same way an air volume reducer in a shock changes ride characteristics.
Wider rims create a wider contact patch between the tire and the ground . With the same tire mounted to a wider rim , the cross sectional view of the tire is less rounded and more square . This results in a larger tread area parallel to the ground . Wider rims also put the cornering knobs in more constant contact with the ground . The change in width ends up pushing the cornering knobs up by stretching out the tire .
MTB Rims Buying Guide
The type of rim you choose must be matched to the type of riding you do – a lightweight set of XC racing hoops simply can’t withstand the beating dished out by a boulder-strewn descent, while a super-strong pair of DH rims is hard work to pedal for any length of time.
Lighter rims mean less rotational weight, which translates into improved acceleration and easier speed – perfect for fast cross-country riding and racing. However wheels for certain MTB disciplines – particularly downhill racing (DH), Enduro riding Freeride (FR) require wider, stronger rims, which can take sustained punishment without folding like a taco (not good).
The three most important considerations when choosing an MTB rim are diameter, width and number of spokes.
The three most common MTB rim diameters are 26”, 27.5” (sometimes referred to as 650b) and 29” (see our ‘Wheels’ buying guide for an-depth explanation as to the differences between the three and the history of the standards).
Whichever rim diameter you opt for will be determined by your bike type (you can’t put 27.5” rims on a bike made for 26” wheels, for example), which in turn will depend on the type of riding you intend to do and your personal preference in wheel sizes.
Finally, some specialised disciplines – Dirt Jumping (DJ) and Street – opt to use smaller, 24” wheels so you may need rims to suit.
Narrow, lightweight rims are used for XC, marathon and general off-road riding, and tough, wider rims for more gravity-orientated adventure.
In recent years 23mm has become accepted as a standard rim width for XC and trail riding, usually matched with tyres up to 2.1” in width. More extreme AM or Enduro riders who aim to tackle rock gardens and technical terrain lean towards rims of 28mm in width, with the ability to comfortably take large-volume 2.25” to 2.4” tyres. Meanwhile DH and FR riders who put their wheels through serious punishment in the air and on the race course may choose rims of 36-40mm or even more, with the capability of using heavy, reinforced 2.5”-2.7” DH tyres.
NOTE: Remember that if you are choosing new wheels for a bike equipped with non-disc brakes you must make sure that the rims have a braking surface for the pads to make contact with. Rims without this should be marked as ‘disc’ or ‘disc only’.
The more spokes a wheel has, the more the load is spread and the stronger the wheel should be, while less spokes means a lighter wheel.
For general trail riding 32-spoke rims have become the accepted standard, with more lightweight race wheels featuring 28- or 24-hole drilling. More extreme riding styles call for more strength so 36 spokes are common in AM, Enduro, DH and FR wheelsets, while the most demanding jump and street riders may opt for anything up to 48 spokes in order to handle the impacts dished out by tarmac and concrete.
When buying replacement rims for an existing wheelset or when building a new wheelset from parts, be sure to match the number of spoke holes on the rim with the number on the hub – e.g. a 32-hole rim needs a 32-hole hub, etc.
NOTE: Building, lacing and truing (adjusting spoke tension so the wheel runs perfectly straight) wheels is an art in itself that demands experience, time and patience – something best left to the professionals if you are not confident. A new set of wheels may naturally go ‘out of true’ after a couple of weeks of riding and need to be adjusted – there are plenty of resources in print or online that will demonstrate how to do this, or your local bike mechanic can easily do it for you.
Finally, you can also buy MTB rims that are either ‘tubeless’ (conform to the Universal Tubeless Standard or UST) specifications or ‘tubeless-ready’. The former are designed to be run with UST tubeless tyres while the latter have special features (adapted hooks for tyre beads, shallow-drop centre sections) optimizing them for tubeless use with the aid of a tubeless conversion kit.
Contact Person: Miss Chen